DIANE PERNET : Fashion icon

AN AMERICAN SUMMER - PART 4
Américaine installée à Paris depuis bientôt 20 ans, Diane Pernet fait partie de ces personnalités qui comptent dans l’univers de la mode.
Ancienne styliste devenue journaliste de mode, créatrice du fameux blog A Shaded View on Fashion et du festival de mode filmée A Shaded View on Fashion Film , curatrice et chasseuse de talents, elle est aussi connue pour son style vestimentaire emblématique composé d’une parure énigmatique et d’une coiffure à la Pompadour piquée d’un long voile. Aujourd’hui, il n’est pas rare de la voir déambuler dans les rues de Paris, sa ville d’adoption qu’elle a rejointe en abandonnant NYC sans aucun regret lorsque la mégalopole américaine souffrait des ravages de la crise économique, du Sida et de la criminalité rampante de la fin des années 80.
Ainsi, elle revient pour nous dans cette interview sur sa vie parisienne, sur l’évolution du milieu de la mode et l’impact de la crise, nous présente ses lieux préférés et nous fait aussi partager ses réflexions sur les déboires économiques de Christian Lacroix, le décès de Michael Jackson et bien évidemment sur les derniers défilés de haute couture à Paris.




Diane, where are you from? When and why did you move to Paris?
I was born in Washington DC, brought up outside Philadelphia on the Main line and moved to New York City. In October 1990, I decided to settle in Paris because NYC was like “Blade Runner”, aids was killing off my neighborhood, crime was rampant and it was not a pleasant nor inspiring place to live.

What were your first impressions when you moved here? What did surprise or amaze you?
Aside from the obvious beauty it was surprising to see how conservative it was and even provincial, and also how the first word out of everyone’s mouth seemed to be ‘no’. What amazed me was its beauty; I still love to discover the city, which is made for living and walking.

You were living in NYC during the 80s. How was the transition to Paris? Did it go smoothly?
NYC in the first part of the 80’s was amazing but, as the decade went on, the homeless got out of control, aids entered the picture. I lived in the West Village and everyone seemed to be sick or dying, it was pretty sad. There was crack, whatever you had was more than they did, so I was living to leave. It took me four years to make that decision since I had a business and had been designing clothes in NYC for 13 years…but the city was not inspiring me anymore.
It was not easy when I moved to Paris. The first three years were hell, everyone invited you to their homes for dinner but no one but other foreigners would help you find a job.


Diane Pernet by Yoann Lemoine

Could you tell us one thing you love and/or hate about Paris and its inhabitants?
Obviously I’m quite happy here as it’s been almost 19 years... I love the city and hate the smell of urine in the metro. I’m amazed how guys just whip it out and pee in the street !

You're considered as an icon of the fashion world. Does that put some pressure on what you do or, on the contrary, is it something that helps you move forward and create new projects?
I never think about it I just go on doing what I do.

What's your point of view on the NYC fashion scene compared to Paris’; how does each city influence the other one?
There is no comparison. In Paris it is not really about French designers but about international designers that choose Paris as their platform. It’s based much more on creativity whereas New York City, which has more energy, is based on business. But I think their combined energy is positive. For example, I love Kelly Cutrone of People’s Revolution, I love her NYC energy in Paris; it really shakes them up.

Is Paris still the capital of fashion?
Yes…and probably it always will be.

Your blog ASVOF has become hugely famous in the fashion world. How did you come up with the idea and how do you approach ASVOF compared to your journalism work; what are the differences?
I used to write for a site called Disciple Films, then for Elle.com and Vogueparis.com. I decided it would be great to just have a blog and write for myself about anything that interested me. I started out using life blogging in February 2005. Back then this kind of cinema-vérité-live-reporting was very ground breaking; even my carrier SFR had no idea what it was even though it went through their phone! ASVOF is very visual; there is not much text, whereas writing for magazines is more reflective.

What are the topics and people that interest you?
Anyone that is doing something with their own voice; it could be fashion, art, film, music, dance…it does not matter.

Are you tired of being asked about the way you dress?
Yes.

What will the economic crisis change for the fashion world? Is that going to create new trends? How does it impact the work of designers?
Hopefully this crisis will get rid of the fashion pollution. Personally I could care less about trends but designers will have to be more creative and also more realistic. They now have to compete with companies like H&M where a coat can be sold for less than it costs a designer to buy the fabric or their trimmings. It’s not easy to compete against that, so they need to be original, inventive, and create their own atmosphere.

A Shaded View on Fashion Film

Any thoughts about Christian Lacroix’s current situation?
It’s very sad. I hope that Frédéric Mitterrand, the new French culture minister will somehow come to his rescue; I know that he would like to help…

Your opinion on the recent fashion shows in Paris: anything exciting? How was the general mood?
I enjoyed Givenchy for couture, Undercover for Men’s, Bernhard Willhelm, Moncler by Thom Browne in Milan. Designers were energized by the crisis whereas buyers are more cautious.

Could you tell us three young designers people need to pay attention to?
Sandra Backlund , Mareunrols , Jean Paul Lespagnard

What does the fashion world lack or need those days?
Loyalty and a reality check. Most designers make clothes that they could not afford…That has to be relooked.

Have you ever considered designing clothes again?
No…

I have heard that you are working on a new project?
Yes, I’m planning the launch of ASVOFF 2 at Centre Pompidou on October 8th.

Michael Jackson was probably the last superstar, not only in the music world. How did you react to his death and what did he bring to the fashion world?
Michael Jackson was amazing, from such a young age…A friend of mine was working on his costumes for his upcoming tour and he’s going to finish them anyway. He, obviously, was devastated but we all were. Michael Jackson brought a style, a bit of flash, one glove, and more than anything he had great moves. It was sad that he would make a song “Black or White”, say it doesn’t matter, but changed his appearance so drastically. Anyway…he was an icon and I am not sure there is any other living pop star of that magnitude at the moment, it was a loss.

As a journalist, what did you think of the massive and international media coverage of his death: was it normal or exaggerated?
It’s normal. He was an icon, like Marilyn Monroe. Everyone was touched by him, five generations, I think. How many people can claim that?


Diane Pernet by Miguel Villalobos

You travel a lot. What are the next cities - in terms of Art and fashion - to watch for, and why?
I would say Scandinavia, but it could also come from Bucharest, who knows…Creativity is everywhere in the world.

Where were you for the election of Obama; what is your opinion on the first few months of his presidency?
I was in Paris, listening to it on the computer. I’m thrilled; it’s no longer embarrassing to show my passport and I think he’s doing the best he can. He’s not a miracle worker.

Let’s do a quick game. I give you a word and you reply with another one…
Fashion? Film. Blog? www.ashadedviewonfashion.com . Paris? home. New York? roots. Journalism? fashion. Designer? Boudicca. Love? life.

What is your favorite neighborhood in Paris?
The 7ème arrondissement.
Restaurant or Café? Yen in the 6ème
Boutique? Ragtime, a vintage store in the 6ème
Movie theater? Le Balzac
Gallery / museum? Centre Pompidou and Gallery Jeanroch Dard

Do you miss the States? Would you ever consider moving back?
No because I feel much better here, in Paris…

Pour plus d'infos sur Diane Pernet :
Son blog : www.ashadedviewonfashion.com
ASVFF : www.ashadedviewonfashionfilm.com

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©2009 Thibaut Estellon / The French Creative Connection
Photo top : Diane Pernet by Araki
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